Patterns, Rigid Heddle Loom, Techniques Tammy Bast Patterns, Rigid Heddle Loom, Techniques Tammy Bast

Pick-Up Sticks will Explode Your World

I’m a big fan of plain weave. It is perfect for so many projects…hand painted warps shine, stripes in tea towels stand out and for a purely meditative weave, nothing beats plain weave. But have you tried pick-up sticks? They will explode your weaving world!

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Pick up sticks weaving

I’m a big fan of plain weave. It is perfect for so many projects…hand painted warps shine, stripes in tea towels stand out and for a purely meditative weave, nothing beats plain weave. But have you tried pick-up sticks? They will explode your weaving world!

What are pick-up sticks? Essentially, they are just like stick shuttles except they have rounded ends, or a point. The pointed end makes it easy to pick up some threads and go under others. When inserted pick-up sticks create an extra shed (or 2) so it’s possible to do more than plain weave. (If you don’t have any pick-up sticks shuttles work too)

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There are 2 ways to insert pick-up sticks.

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1.       Place the heddle in the down position, this brings all the ends in slots to the top. Stand behind the loom slide the point over and under the threads as the pattern directs. It might be over 1, under 1; over 2 under 1; over 5, under 5, or any other combination.

2.       Place the heddle in the down position. Working in front of the reed place the pick-up stick as the pattern directs. Turn the pick-up stick on its edge to raise up the threads on top, slide a second pick-up stick under the raised threads behind the reed.

I always use method 1 but my books all use method 2. Method 2 works well for those with back or neck problems who don’t want to lean over the back of their loom. Here’s a video because it’s so much easier to see than write!

 Sometimes it can be difficult to see exactly which threads to go over and under. If the warp is dark, slide a white piece of paper in the shed after placing the heddle in the down position. If the warp is light, use a dark piece of paper.

Now that the stick is in place you have 2 new sheds to use! (Remember the shed is the space the shuttle slides through).

Weft floats

Weft floats

1.       Place the heddle in the neutral position. Slide the pick-up behind the heddle and flip it on its side. When the yarn goes through this shed you will see weft floats.

2.       Place the heddle in the up position. Slide the pick-up stick behind the heddle leaving it flat. This will create warp floats.

And that is all there is to weaving with pick-up sticks! And this is only the beginning! You can use multiple pick-up sticks to create incredibly complex patterns. Patterns using only 1 pick-up stick are simple, the stick can stay in place the entire weave. With multiple sticks they usually need to be removed and replaced each repeat. That’s when you might want to start using string heddles. (But that’s for another post!)

If you think you’re ready to try pick-up sticks, here’s a link to a pattern I use to teach beginner pick-up weaving complete with video links. https://www.therogueweaver.com/new-products/malabrigo-waffle-weave-scarf

Happy Weaving!

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Patterns, Rigid Heddle Loom, Techniques Tammy Bast Patterns, Rigid Heddle Loom, Techniques Tammy Bast

Mohair for Warp?!

I’m on a few weaving groups on Facebook as well as following a number of rigid heddle weavers on Instagram. As I read the posts I learn a lot, some I agree with, some not so much. One idea that seems to be coming up a lot lately is mohair. Specifically, that one should not use mohair for warp.  I must disagree!

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I’m on a few weaving groups on Facebook as well as following a number of rigid heddle weavers on Instagram. As I read the posts I learn a lot, some I agree with, some not so much. One idea that seems to be coming up a lot lately is mohair. Specifically, that one should not use mohair for warp.  I must disagree!

I know why weavers believe this, I’ve experienced why weavers, after 1 attempt at a mohair warp swear never again, but I love the effect of a mohair warp. I love the light airy feel. I love the drape. I love the warmth. I love how far just a little bit can go.  So, here are my tips for using mohair as warp, and a free “pattern” to make your own mohair wrap.

  1. Use the right hedd!e. Mohair is sticky. If it is too close together you will have problems. I usually use my 7.5  (for 1000m/100g) or 5 dent (500m/100g)

  2. Place an extra shuttle or pick up stick behind the reed as follows: with heddle in the down position place shuttle in the shed behind the reed. Slide shuttle as far back as possible. This shuttle will stay in the work for the entire project. I find the down shed is usually the stickiest. The shuttle helps and if it is too sticky and you can’t get a clear shed: just slide the shuttle forward, flip it in its edge and voila!

  3. Be prepared to spend extra time. Weaving with mohair does require a little extra patience. You will need to check to ensure the shed is clear before passing the shuttle through. You will probably spend time hand picking some threads apart. You may need a few s hooks to help with tension issues. You will need to be extra vigilant to ensure the right number of picks per inch.

  4. After winding the work forward, place the heddle in the up position and spend a few minutes making sure there are no tangles behind the reed. This will make it easier to keep the up shed clear until you wind forward again.

  5. Finally, have fun, try some lace or finger techniques. Mix and your warp, most of all, don’t be afraid, it is after all, only string!


I promised a free pattern. It’s not really a pattern because it is so easy, but here it is:

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You will need a 7.5 dent reed and a mohair and silk blend (I use Zambezi by Fleece Artist/Handmaiden but Rowan Kidsilk Haze will work just as well. (Or any other mohair silk blend that is 1000m/100g)

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Warp measures 100” (2.5 meters) Warp as wide as you like or your loom can handle (1000m will warp and weft 100” x 32”) Tie on in small bundles. I like to tie little bows because they are easier to untie at the end. Plus, they are so darn cute!

Weave at about 6 picks per inch. It really looks like a window screen as you are weaving!! (remember the tips above)

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Hemstitch the ends in bundles of 4, alternatively, or if you forget to hemstitch, knots in bundles of 4 look like little beads (ask how I know!) Don’t worry about the spaces between bundles…they will wash out, I promise!

Weave until you can weave no more (about 84”)

Cut off the loom and tie fringe in large loose bundles to prevent tangling. Soak in very hot water (I use my washing machine). Spin out the water and dry on high heat for 5 minutes. Untie bundles and press with a hot iron set for steam. Trim ends and enjoy!

PS If you would like to order an already made wrap, please contact me!

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Patterns, Rigid Heddle Loom, Techniques Tammy Bast Patterns, Rigid Heddle Loom, Techniques Tammy Bast

Double Width Weaving

Some People might think that a rigid heddle loom is just a beginner loom. The loom to get if you can’t get a “real” loom. But a rigid heddle loom, even one that is small, has endless potential. Mine is a 32”. It’s about as big as I think I can comfortably weave on with stick shuttles. But I just recently wove a 48” blanket, in one piece. And the pattern is actually designed for a 24” loom.

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Double Width Weaving

Some People might think that a rigid heddle loom is just a beginner loom. The loom to get if you can’t get a “real” loom. But a rigid heddle loom, even one that is small, has endless potential. Mine is a 32”. It’s about as big as I think I can comfortably weave on with stick shuttles. But I just recently wove a 48” blanket, in one piece. And the pattern is actually designed for a 24” loom.

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What? 48” on a 24” loom? How does that work? It’s really quite simple. All you need are 2 heddles, a double heddle kit and a couple pick up sticks. The trick is to create 2 layers to weave at the same time. On the loom, it looks like one layer, but if you look from the side, you will see 2 layers. One side closed, one side open. When the blanket comes off the loom, you can open it up and voila! A blanket twice the width of the loom! This was actually the first weaving class I taught. The hardest part is setting up the loom. We started at 10 am and finally got to the actual weaving at about 3pm! If that seems a bit daunting, relax, we took breaks and we waited until everyone completed each step before moving on. With practice, it takes just a few hours to get to weaving.

I love working with the Berroco Ultra Wool for double width weaving. It’s 100% superwash wool, it isn’t too stretchy or sticky and it fulls beautifully. Plus there are dozens of colours to choose from. The wash-ability means that it is perfect for baby blankets. But there is no reason to limit this to only a blanket. It makes a great wrap…check out the drape! Or picnic blanket. Take it camping, dress up your living room or carry it in your car for emergencies.

The colours of this blanket were inspired by a trip to Lunenburg, NS. Lunenburg is a beautiful  seaside town with the typical brightly painted houses. I was amazed by the number of shades of orange houses. Clementine and orange, orange and purple, orange and green. And they all looked beautiful! I really wanted a tiny bit of yellow/green in this blanket, but we didn’t have it and I was too impatient to wait for it, so orange and rust it is. I took many pictures of the houses though, I’m sure they will inspire other colour combinations in the future.

Want this blanket for yourself? Click here to purchase.

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