Tammy Bast Tammy Bast

Help! I've Used Mohair for Warp!

We’ve all put a warp on our loom and regretted it later. Sometimes we even know ahead of time that it isn’t a good idea and we do it any way! And if you’re like me, when it comes off the loom and is so beautiful and soft and cuddly and you just love it so much, you promptly forget how terrible it was to weave and you actually choose to do it all over again!

We’ve all put a warp on our loom and regretted it later. Sometimes we even know ahead of time that it isn’t a good idea and we do it any way! And if you’re like me, when it comes off the loom and is so beautiful and soft and cuddly and you just love it so much, you promptly forget how terrible it was to weave and you actually choose to do it all over again!

Today we’re going to look at mohair. Specifically the really fuzzy mohair. You definitely need the right mindset to weave with this as warp. Usually I limit myself to using this as weft, but occasionally I have a moment of weakness and think “how bad can it be?” I assure you, it can be bad, but I’ve put together a list that will hopefully make it easier for you.

First, use a bigger reed than you think. Remember all that fluff is going to spread. And the fluff will hold everything together, so if the work looks you’re weaving a window screen, it’s ok! Second, prepare yourself mentally. This will be a slow weave. You will need to clear sheds, maybe every single one. Keep the finished project in mind. Have a good audio book downloaded, or a podcast or a binge-worthy show ready to go! I also have a nice cup of tea. (But I always have a nice cup of tea!)

Ok, the mind is ready, let’s look at the actual weaving! Here are my tips to help you survive and thrive!

1. Insert a shuttle or pick-up stick in the down-shed behind the heddle and push it to the back. That will clear your down-shed...just slide it forward on edge each down-shed or as needed. Make sure that it is longer than the width of your project.

2. Keep your tension high. I always have a high tension, but this is especially important with a fuzzy or sticky warp. Mohair is strong, it is not going to break under tension. (If you need a reminder of this, try breaking it with your hands…can’t be done without leaving deep, painful, grooves!)

3. When moving from the down-shed to the up-shed, pull the heddle slightly higher than usual to help clear things out. I actually lift the heddle so that the reed is completely above the heddle block, then lower it in to the block. You will probably still need to clear the shed some.

4. The fuzz builds up behind the heddle...this binds the warp ends together. Regularly clean out that fuzz! I wish had taken a picture of this…the fuzz is amazing, both behind the reed and under the loom. There is so much fuzz that you might consider masking up.

5. Send the shuttle through the shed close to the reed. When the shuttle is fully inserted into the shed, flip it on edge to check you have gone under every end and have no floats. Then, while the shuttle is still in the shed, slide it down to the weaving (the fell line). This makes sure the ends are all separated and will make it easier to bring the reed forward.

6. Finally, don't try to unweave! Fix any floats after the work is off the loom!!

Of course, these tips will work with any sticky warp, not just mohair, so, now that you know how to weave a sticky warp, it’s time to put the knowledge into action. Go see what’s in your stash and put it on your loom! A single skein of hand-dyed mohair with a lace-weight weft is beautiful! (picture 1 below). Need some inspiration? Try these: Saori-Style Scarf or Lighter Than Air. I promise that they won’t be terrible to weave, but these tips may come in handy!

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Tammy Bast Tammy Bast

Threading the Heddle Made Easy!

I love weaving. And I love efficiency! Here’s a little trick I learned and pass onto students in my classes. The first time I taught it, they thought it was magical. I hope that you find it useful too!

After you have your warp all wound up and you are ready to thread the heddle, try this:

I love weaving. And I love efficiency! Here’s a little trick I learned and pass onto students in my classes. The first time I taught it, they thought it was magical. I hope that you find it useful too!

After you have your warp all wound up and you are ready to thread the heddle, try this:

  1. Gather up a handful of ends (it doesn’t matter how many, I’ll gather up a few inches worth).

  2. Holding the ends, pull them out so there is a little tension on them. Using your threading hook, slip the hook under 1 end of each pair. I promise that this gets easier as you practice…and it’s worth slowing down now to be faster later!

  3. Lift up the ends that are on top of the hook and drop the remaining ends. Grab the ends on the hook and hold onto them. These are the ends that you will thread through the holes.

4. Raise up the ends in your hand to the top of the slots. Slip the threading hook through the desired hole. Lower the ends in your hand, hook the warp end you want and pull it through the hole. Repeat across the loom. As you lower the ends, the outer-most end should naturally fall right on the hook for easy hooking. Be sure to tie a slip knot when you are done your bundle so if the reed falls your warp will not fall out!

Weaving isn’t about speed (though I do like efficiency), but I’m pretty convinced that if you give this method a fair try, you will find that it is easier. That it’s also faster is just a side benefit!

Here’s a video.

Ready to hone your skills with some practice projects? Here are a couple of patterns perfect for your practice sessions. From left to right: The Tranquility Wrap, My First Scarf and Crossroads Tea Towel.

Happy Weaving!

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