Sampling
the yarn matches my mug!
I’ve been asked to design a pattern for an up coming Interweave publication. I am, needless to say, very excited, a little proud and quite nervous. They have published several of my patterns already but this is different. The previous ones I’ve sent pictures of finished projects and they either say yes or no. This one they actually contacted me(!) and asked if I would design something to certain measurements with yarn from a company of their choosing (I still got to choose the yarn). I have approximately 2 months to write a brief article, send in three reports (one of which must show the sampling process) weave the project, write the pattern and get the finished item back to Interweave.
The wrap test
I received the yarn this week and began sampling. It’s beautiful yarn! Wool with just a touch of silk, super soft and with lots of spring. I’ve never really sampled before. You know how I feel about sampling…I know its important, I just can’t convince myself to do it. However, that is part of this project, so sample I must! It’s been a valuable learning experience.
I wove a number of samples…if I’m going to do something, I’m going to do it well. Sample #1 was 4 up 4 down honeycomb, 3/1 lace, 3 up 3 down honeycomb, and some waffle weave variations. Sample #2 was on a smaller reed and included a 3 up 3 down honeycomb, a variation on honeycomb, and a variation on waffle weave. Sample #3 was all plain weave with colour patterning and finally, sample #4 was 2 heddles to weave twill.
Here’s what I learned:
1. Weaving without sampling is like cooking without a recipe. It might turn out ok, but you might end up with a disaster!
2. Again, with the cooking analogy, a little spice is good, too much is not! The variegated yarn is beautiful but too much and all patterning is lost (this is supposed to be a log cabin pattern) Using a strong solid helps anchor the busyness of variegated yarn.
3. Just like in life, sometimes the rules change. I did the wrap test and determined that the 10 dent should be just fine. But it’s not for honeycomb; the back floats are much to long and the finished fabric is not what I had anticipated. Switch to a 12.5 dent and the floats are smaller and the fabric so squishy soft! But, use the 12.5 dent for plain weave and the bounce of the yarn is completely eliminated.
4. Again, just like in life, sometimes things are hidden until the end and we just need to faithfully persevere. Unfortunately I forgot to take a picture of the twill on the loom. But you could not see the pattern at all. Even after soaking and drying the pattern was barely visible (actually, I was a little depressed as this was the most time consuming and I had the highest hopes.) But after pressing the pattern does show! (and you can see lesson 2 in action…see how the pattern shows best with the yellow warp and blue weft. This should be done with a solid warp and variegated weft)
So, am I a sampling convert? Probably not. It has its place and I will certainly consider sampling for large projects or projects that need to meet particular specifications. For the most part though I weave for my own pleasure and if something doesn’t turn out as planned I’m ok with it.
